【生活中的品牌故事】譚仔米線是如何「合久必分，分久必合」的？How Tam Jai Mixian Underwent the Cycle of 'Dividing and Reuniting'?

有一個本土餐飲品牌，用二十多年的時間打造了價值三十億港元的生意，它的米線你我都一定吃過，它就是譚仔。它曾經一分為二，兩家創辦人不相往來，在生意上針鋒相對，結果雙雙成就價值十億的生意。最後，又雙雙被同一家日資企業收購。「譚仔國際」現在的市值已超過大快活一倍。這到底是個怎樣的故事？

譚氏家族籍貫湖南，祖父是富裕地主，譚父在文化大革命時被批鬥、坐過牢，財產被侵吞。1960年代，譚父母帶同孩子從廣州偷渡至香港。幾兄弟中，三哥對烹飪充滿興趣，曾開設茶餐廳，惟經營未如理想草草結業。

1996年，首間譚仔雲南米線於長沙灣永隆街1號開業，他們認為「米線將來會成為香港粉麵的主流」，將四川麻辣及雲南米線合而為一。股東原為為三哥、六哥、四姐夫和六哥的兩位同學。2000年，六哥兩位同學退股，五哥入股。三哥曾表示當時是想接濟經濟拮据的五弟所以將湯底秘方傳授給他。2003年，家族四人註冊成立「同心飲食有限公司」，正式開始開分店，四人各佔25%股份。及後開設分店之資金均來自公司內部盈利。

在譚氏父母離世之後，幾兄弟因經營理念分歧而分家。

2008年，家族決定拆夥，平分當時12間分店。分為三哥、六哥之「譚仔三哥米線」，和四姐夫婦、五哥之「譚仔雲南米線」，兩者共同擁有商標及秘方。雙方長期不相往來。三哥一方稱湯底秘方由三哥原創，五哥一方稱湯底秘方源自譚父。兩家店之差異可以由門口水牌，碗碟顏色，餐牌分辨。

近十年不相往來之後，卻因作價吸引而雙雙被同一家日資企業收購。

2017年5月15日，日本「丸龜製麵」母企東利多以10億港元（150億日圓）向四姐夫婦及五哥收購「譚仔雲南米線」100%股權。2017年12月1日，東利多再宣布向三哥及六哥全面收購「譚仔三哥米線」，作價11.1億港元。兩次收購之後，東利多將持有108間譚仔分店，在香港雲南米線市佔率增至約70%。

儘管東利多收購了兩家公司，但是會繼續保留各自的特色。東利多旗下「譚仔國際」行政總裁劉達民曾表示，兩間譚仔營運至今已十多年，各自有其擁躉，重塑品牌形象時，亦會保留其特色。譚仔主打家庭客，小食分量較大，方便一家大細分享。譚仔三哥主攻年輕、有活力的客群，強調「香麻辛辣」，湯底較濃味，希望「教香港人食辣」。兩家公司亦不時推出各款限定口味，為求保持食客的新鮮感。

自2020年起，「譚仔國際」不斷擴張業務並衝出香港，分別在香港、中國內地、 新加坡及日本開設19間、9間、5間及2間新餐廳。「譚仔國際」致力於進一步擴展店舖網絡，並計畫繼續拓展本地及海外業務。

因家族分歧而造成的風格不同，卻反而造就了不同的市場定位，能夠互相補位。合在一起時，能夠全方位佔領米線市場。不知十年之後，東利多會否仍將譚仔辦得有聲有色呢？

There is a local food and beverage brand that built a 2-billion Hong Kong dollar business in just 20 years. Its Mixian is something you and I have definitely tried before; it's none other than Tam Jai. The brand once split into two factions, with the founders ceasing communication and becoming business rivals. As a result, both companies achieved a value of 1 billion HKD each. Eventually, both were acquired by the same Japanese-funded corporation. The current market value of Tam Jai International now far exceeds that of Café de Coral by double. This intriguing story began with the Tam family from Hunan, China.

Tam family’s grandfather was a wealthy landowner, and Tam's father was criticized and jailed during the Cultural Revolution, with their property seized.In the 1960s, the Tam parents smuggled their children into Hong Kong. Among the brothers, the third brother was passionate about cooking and opened a cha chaan teng, but it closed due to poor performance. 

In 1996, the first Tam Jai Yunnan Mixian store opened at 1 Wing Lung Street, Cheung Sha Wan, fusing Sichuan spiciness and Yunnan Mixian. The original shareholders included the third brother, sixth brother, fourth sister's husband, and two classmates of the sixth brother. In 2000, the sixth brother's classmates withdrew their shares, and the fifth brother joined. The third brother once said that he passed on the soup base recipe to his fifth brother to help him financially. In 2003, the four family members registered and established "Tung Sum Catering Limited" and officially began opening branches, with each person holding a 25% stake. Subsequent branch openings were funded by internal company profits.

Following the Death of Tam's Parents, Siblings Parted Ways Due to Divergent Management Philosophies

In 2008, the family decided to break up, evenly dividing the 12 branches at the time. The third and sixth brothers left the "Tam Jai Yunnan Mixian" sign to the fifth brother and the fourth sister's husband and founded "Tam Jai SamGor Mixian" separately, with both parties sharing the trademark and secret recipe. The third brother's side claimed that the soup base recipe was originally created by him, while the fifth brother's side claimed it came from their father. The differences between the two stores can be identified by the signs at the entrance, the colors of the bowls and plates, and the menus.

After Nearly a Decade Apart, Both Sides Were Acquired by the Same Japanese Company Attracted by the Compelling Price

After almost a decade, both businesses were acquired by Toridoll due to attractive valuations. In 2017, Toridoll acquired 100% ownership of "Tam Jai Yunnan Mixian" for 10 billion HKD and later "Tam Jai SamGor Mixian" for 11.1 billion HKD. Now owning 108 Tam Jai stores, Toridoll has about 70% market share in Hong Kong's Yunnan Mixian industry. 

Despite the acquisition, both companies retain their distinct characteristics, catering to different clientele. Liu Damin, CEO of Tam Jai International under Toridoll, has said that the two Tam Jai operations have been running for over a decade, each with their own fan base, and when rebranding, they will preserve their distinct features. “Tam Jai” primarily targets family customers, offering larger portion sizes that are suitable for sharing among family members. On the other hand, “Tam Jai SamGor” focuses on younger and more energetic customers, emphasizing "fragrant, numbing, hot and spicy", with a stronger soup base, aiming to "teach Hong Kong people to eat spicy food." Both companies also periodically introduce limited-edition flavors to maintain a sense of novelty for their customers.

Starting from 2020, Tam Jai International has been continuously expanding its business beyond Hong Kong, establishing 19 new restaurants in Hong Kong, 9 in mainland China, 5 in Singapore, and 2 in Japan. Tam Jai International is dedicated to further expanding its store network and has plans to continue broadening its local and international presence.

The differences in style caused by family disagreements have inadvertently created different market positions that can complement each other. When combined, they can fully occupy the rice noodle market. It remains to be seen whether Toridoll will continue to manage Tam Jai successfully in the next ten years.